As booming property prices and the influx of deep-pocketed professionals stand accused of murdering the mood in some of Paris’ more louche arrondissements, heavy tourist traffic is making its dour mark in other precints. More than 6.7 million people visited the Eiffel Tower in 2013. That explains the never-ending glut of buses, coaches and tourists. Quickie eat outlets have sprung up near Pont d’Iena. Quai Branly, from rue Jean Rey to Ave de Suffren, morphed into a circus sideshow of spurious souvenir stands and dodgey street food stalls in the name of Christmas and New Year. But there’s a pretty new permanent kid on the block. Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse and pâtissier Christophe Michalak have joined forces in “Choux d’Enfer“, a wraparound metal kiosk designed by long-time Ducasse collaborator Patrick Jouin that dispenses little choux pastries, also known as choquettes. There are savoury versions (cumin & espelette pepper, black pepper, curry & espelette pepper, all flecked with melted comté cheese) as well as sugar-dusted sweet ones (chocolate, vanilla, coffee, salted caramel, citrus), snap filled with cream if you desire. The cumin is the pick of the salty bunch for me, with citrus the preferred sweetie choice. The perfect afternoon pick-me up with a glass of bubbly or a warm morning treat with a stiff espresso, and best fresh out of the oven. Choux d’Enfer, corner of rue Jean Rey & Quai Branly 75015. Open everyday, 9h – 20h30. Prices from €6 for 3 sweet choux, €7 for 9 savoury choux (3 of each flavour).
