Sandwiched between the 7th and the 15th arrondissements in an enclave not exactly known for interesting dinner options, L’Antre Amis stands out for its warm hospitality and modern, youthful food. There’s no dizzying array of dishes with supercilious descriptions, instead it’s a blackboard choice of two starters, two mains and two desserts (for €35), or a chef’s whim degustation of five courses with or without wine, depending on the depth of your pockets. Grilled calamari paired with a carrot and ginger coulis and garden plucked salad leaves is satisfyingly fresh and uncomplicated; rosy, buttersoft tuna wrapped in pastry is pan-fried and served with a shellfish foam, emerald peas, barely wilted baby spinach leaves and a dollop of Sardinian pasta; dessert is a beautifully arranged poached apple with quince pods, coconut biscuit buttons and mini meringue stalks. The serving staff are bright and helpful and the place, with its cosy chairs and designer touches, is, not surprisingly, busy. We foolishly agreed to a suggestion of “some toasts and…” to accompany our apero of Manoir de Capucin Pouilly Fuissé, adding an extra €18 to our bill for an, admittedly delicious, serving of white tuna belly from Bellota-Bellota. Totally unnecessary given the unselfish portions and high quality flavours that roll out from the kitchen. 9 rue Bouchut 75015, Open Mon-Fri